Friday, December 4, 2009

thought teepee


Sitting
Hovering over a spinning wheel
Caressing the embryo of my thoughts
Splatters of red earth canvas my arms
My hands and soul immersed into this organic creation

Conceiving
Pushing to center with steady desire
Laboring a teetering tower into my castle of clay
Waves of nervousness ripple down my spine
My fingers manipulating the fragile fortress

Pondering
Who will live here?
Inhibitions, dreams, smiles, experiences, past decisions?
Will their shelter be rejoiced as they embrace the nature confining them
Or will they seek hope and change in shades of blue and green?

Thursday, December 3, 2009

i am the girl

i am the girl
who runs with waves, dances on sand, and worships the wind.
i live for the sun and prey for the storm.
i find happiness everyday and strength in every wave.

i see the love
i feel the light
i'd steal for swell
i live for flight.

the claw-like hand that one would dread
i hold it high over my head
then push beneath to glide below
watching time slow with each new blow

i kick my tail to surface through
the salt and grime... i've done my time
in years i sit and dream of spit
to send me through another day.

i yearn for love, but am too consumed
these waves i'll take into my tomb.
am i normal? i don't care.
call me careless. let me share.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

peeling playground



after a typical ride on the beach criuser through the south bay, i reached my street and saw the sun was just about to drop. i kicked off my flops and ran to the shore to write.

Purple velvet backdrops lend way to love
Lend way to experience, lend way to time, tide
Caressing the glowing ember, the day is ending
Bringing way to silence as gold blends to amber
Music carries my thoughts
Memories of gifts
Memories of warmth
Memories of clarity
Memories of swells
Carrying me down glassy faces
Pushing backward to prepare to lean forward to what will be
Enjoying the moment where we are alone
With the next wave we will be alone with the ocean
The sunshine and me.

I can be found waiting in the company of memories
To be the first in line to see your face
To be alone with you and your smooth peeling playground.

34th Street


it was 2 weeks ago. my knee injury plagues me. it was after the sun was showing it's face over the hills. it was after my return from mexico. it was 34th street. it was glassy. it was warm. it was too warm for my wetsuit. i didn't care. it was perfection. it was a saturday morning and i didn't have to work. there were 8 people trying for the wave. i didn't care. i was in the right spot. i had the drive. i went for it. i caught the wave backside. i held my board and weaved it through 4 kooks staring at me wondering how they were going to avoid me. i released directly in the pocket. i thrusted a bottom turn. backed up to the top. down to the bottom. i pushed up to the top. glassy. down to the bottom. i felt the salt on my hand. it splashes on my arm. it splashes in my face. i taste the ocean. i feel the ocean. i feel the power. it forces me to the top. i thrust to the bottom. i aim for the lip. it flares it's fury against my ride. i push it down. it begins to give in. i feel the momentum slow. i stand up. i realize it is ending. i arch back. a back flip comes to mind and i go for it with all i have. i hit the water on my heels and sink happily. it was done. it was my wave. it was my life. it was me.

i am one

i am free.

i will always remember.

i close my eyes.

it is in me.

always.